The morning is dedicated to the mosques of Masjed-e Nasir-al-Molk and Masjed-e Vakil. We send the caretaker at the first mosque into a tizz when we appear at 11.45 with the mosque closing at 12.00. Mansour manages to get us in. The Shirazi mosques, whilst also characterised by beautiful polychrome tiling, ‘muqarna’ stalactites portals and vaulted interiors decorated with perfectly blended geometric motifs and arabesques, stand out for the floral pink tiling designs, carved columns and stained glass windows. The mihrab (the niche in the wall of a mosque that indicates the ‘qibla’ i.e. the direction of the Kaaba in Mecca and the direction Muslims should face when praying) and minbar (pulpit) in the Masjed-e Vakil’s prayer hall are impressive.
We take a mosque break and throw ourselves into the melee of the Shirazi bazaar. I would say that, together with Kashan’s bazaar, a walk through Shiraz’s bazaar is undoubtedly a highlight of the Iran experience. Less Chinese products and more Persian jewellery, crafts and antiques and... no hauliers knocking you down!
A totally different style awaits us at the Hammam-e Vakil and Arg-e Karim Khan, respectively the thermal baths and fortress of Shiraz built by Shah Karim Khan in the 18th century. The frescoes in both these buildings are in the process of being restored. The style is more austere, dominated by simple floral designs. Quite a change from the Safavid and Qajar traditions!
We accompany Claude to the airport as she will be flying back to the UK tomorrow. From Monday on I’ll be on my own for the last week, headed for Kerman. I join Jaci and Mansour for dinner with their Iranian next door neighbours, a very pleasant couple from Mavdasht, close to Persepolis. I get to know the Haft Khan, Shiraz’s trendiest restaurant offering a variety of cuisines on four floors. Modern, but elegant...
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