Day 8 October 25th - From Esfahan into the Desert

We manage to convince our co-travellers in the minibus for the desert town of Garmeh to let us visit the Masjed-e Shah. What impresses me most is the size and geometric harmony of this mosque complex as you walk from the portal into the successive iwans (terraces) and finally into the main prayer hall. Calligraphy repeating the names of Mohamed and Ali, beautiful mosaics and tile work in deep blue and yellow and the open vaults looking into the minarets and dome of the next door madraseh (religious school), again create an amazing spectacle with your eyes not quite knowing where to look next...

Esfahan is now behind us and we are headed for the desert hamlet of Garmeh, in the Dasht-e Kavir (the Kavir Desert). Along the way we stop at Kouh Payeh to visit a recently restored caravanserai, Ghehi to see a traditional weekend home of a well-to-do Esfahani family, Naiin to discover the mihrab and underground prayer hall (lighting through alabaster windows) of one of the oldest mosques in the country and finally Anarak, a town of red mud-brick houses where we climb to the top of a hill to see an impressive sunset. Below us we see ‘new’ Anarak, a town built by rich Anarakis, many of whom now live abroad with the money made in the nearby aluminium and uranium mines...

We reach Garmeh around 7.30pm. This small desert town has been saved by Maziar, an artist and musician from Garmeh, who has opened a guest house which now attracts tourists looking for a desert experience. Maziar and his team help you arrange visits to hot springs, salt lakes, camel rides and trekking in the desert. The guest house is laid out around a small courtyard that acts as a meeting point for meals but also socialising and exchanging experiences with fellow travellers. It is in these pleasant surroundings that we enjoy a good camel and celery stew, listen to Maziar’s drum and vases music and then discuss tomorrow’s desert itinerary with our guide. The plan is to drive to the oasis of Farahzad and then head for our night camp by camel ride and walking to spend the night sleeping under the stars. Alas, I was not going to be a part of it...